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Item #: 12172

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Price: $63.85
    Cost: 5108
    Earns: 64
    Bonus: 0

    Availability:

    Normal Stock Item - Next Business Day

    These shocks are the as close to original specs as possible for the Mercury Cougar. This is the comfort shock for those looking for a softer ride. The KYB Gas-a-Just shocks use higher gas pressure to keep your tires glued to the road. The KYB Gas-a-Just shocks' velocity-sensitive valving system adjusts quickly to changing road conditions for maximum comfort in any situation. Their mono tube configuration eliminates aeration and foaming, their micro-smooth, hard-chromed pistons extend their life, and their seamless cylinders and eye rings completely eliminate seam failures. Not recommended for the Mustang due to longer leaf springs and travel differences.

    Specifications:
    Weight: 5.00 LBS (weight shown may be the dimensional weight)
    (4.50 out of 5 stars) Customer Rating based upon 2 Review(s).

    Material:
    Fit:
    Craftsmanship:
    Correctness:
    5.00 out of 5
    Pros:
    Cons:
    Very happy with the ride and feel of these KYBs. These went on with a new set of rear leafs and i already have the matching pair on the front. Definitely the best set of shocks i've had on my 67.

    A "Brief" Synopsis on Installation

    Rating:
    4.00 out of 5
    Pros:
    • Holds%20the%20car%20nicely%20in%20place
    • Work%20wonderfully
    Cons:
    • Hard to install (But I believe in you)
    For starters, these shocks fit very nicely once they are finagled into their mounts. These shocks how ever are extremely time consuming to install and not as easy as some websites may lead you to believe. One that I read said just compress the shock and because it's gas it will hold its shape long enough to install it. That's not even close to true with these shocks. They spring right back up very quickly. Here's what I did and hopefully you can use this to make your install less time consuming than mine was.

    Place the rear of the car on jack stands (or all for wheels up- your choice; I just did the rear). Don't use ramps like one website suggests because you will need the leaf springs as decompressed as you can get them to make this shock fit. Now on the the fun parts: First, you will need to cut the strap to get the bushings onto it. Install the bottom plate and bushing. Next, grab some very thick string (I used a plastic-y type threaded string, only because it's what I had laying around). Then, fold the string in half so it is doubled and loop it around the base of the shock (in between the plate and the shock itself. Then, pull the sting up (should be two ends) and make the lengths longer than the shock itself (I went about 4 inches above). Now the fun begins. Grab a friend and have them tie a knot for you on the upper part of the shock. To do this you will compress the shock completely by placing one end on the ground and putting the inside palms of your hands around the top where the threads are and push until the shock is completely depressed. Then have your friend work very quickly (keeping the string with two pieces at all times (the shock will break the string if you just use one) pull the string taught and tie two knots around the top of the thread (KEEP YOUR FRIENDS FINGERS AWAY FROM BEING UNDER THE STRING- if you accidentally slip in your grip you very well may take the top of their finger off because the shock will decompress and from experience it can leave a nasty cut and it hurts like the dickens). Your hands will hurt by this point from pushing so much. Then very carefully let it go and the shock will decompress a little but this is as good as it's going to get. Place the upper inner plate and bushing on the shock quickly and go under the car and place the shock into the upper mounting hole. The shock will still have some threads hanging down at this point near the shock plate. Push up from the base of the shock and try to get it to seat on the lip of the plate near the hole. Then take a hammer and lightly tap the threads into the hole. Once the shock is in position get the bushing on the bottom to line up with the hole (the big lip part goes on the hole side and the small one goes on the inside near the plate). Now with an X-acto knife that has a serrated blade or any other small serrated blade, cut the knot end of the string (near the top hole) and once its through pull the blade quickly out so the shock doesn't squish it in between it and the car. Repeat these steps for the other side and then the installation is almost complete. Now place the bottom bushing, plate, and nut onto the bottom of the shock on both sides (loosely). Then go into the car and place the bushing, plate and nut on the top side. Tighten the nut down (it says it should be torqued to 20-28 ft-lbs) but good luck getting it there. The shock will spin all around while you get closer to tightening it. When you think you have the top in pretty good go back underneath the car and tighten those nuts down. This is when you will really see the bottom end of the shock spin. You might want to have your friend hold the shock in a death grip while you tighten as much as you both can hold (the spinning shock will win fyi). Go back into the car and tighten the bolts a little more and then try the bottom ones again. Once you've done all this you should be set to go. These shocks hold the car very nicely and very correctly to the right stance (my application was a '69 Cougar and it kept the car very level - for you guys and gals with 67-68 Cougars that have the leaning back look of a pouncing kitty this will level that right out unless you are partial to the leaning look in which case different shocks might be a better option for you). Well, that's all I have to say about that. Hope this helps a little bit and good luck!

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