Cooling System Upgrade - Small Block - Complete Kit - Repro ~ 1969 Mercury Cougar / 1969 Ford Mustang

Installed this in my Mustang with a 302 and will carry it over to the 351W upgrade. Everything you need is in the kit except the hoses and WCCC has those too. The only minor fitment issue is the fan shroud does not have reliefs for automatic transmission cooling lines. If you have a manual you're golden.

I had been chasing an overheating issue with my 69 Cougar for over 8yrs. I spent over $1900 dollars on 3 & 4 row aluminum radiators, 4 thermostats, 3 different electric fan combo's, ranging from 2500 - 3200 cfm's. New hoses and various types of miracle coolants from waterless to high temp. Even after all that, on a 85+ degree temp day in stop & go traffic my car would climb to 230 degrees or higher. Once I put the WCCC kit in and saw that my car stayed below 210 on a 90 plus degree day. I was totally stoked that after all these yrs I had finally solved my biggest issue with my car.

This would have been more difficult without the video. I upgraded my Eliminator as the 20” was original and was having cooling issues in Southern Texas. Keeping the holes lined up to bolt the clutch/fan onto the pulley is key. I had to loosen a belt, take pulley off slightly, to get bolt holes lined up. And as the first review, my shroud was too high. Lots of adjusting with vertical grooves.

I followed the instructional video on your website.After the installation ( 1969 mustang with 302) I found that the big block fan was hitting my transmission lines where they connect to the new radiator and also hitting the bottom of the new shroud. As I couldn't adjust the fan position because it is fixed to the motor, I decided I had to lower the radiator and the shroud. I managed to lower the radiator by taking out the rubber between the bottom of the bracket and the bottom of the new rad. I also cut slots in the shroud vertically where the shroud attached to the new rad to allow the shroud to slide down. There seemed to be plenty of room at the top of the shroud but not a lot at the bottom. By doing this the rad and shroud moved down about 3/16'' I got the clearance I needed. I also had to put extra washers in behind the top bracket and the rad to hold the rad at a slight angle closer to the fan that also helped with the bottom clearance issue especially with the shroud. If the fan was a 1/4 inch diameter smaller in diameter or the bottom brackets let the rad sit lower (I took the bottom rubber piece out left the sides in) I would not have had any issues. Shroud is also non adjustable without drilling more holes or as i did cutting a verticle slotsto aloow the shroud to move down
Thanks
Tom

I didn't have any issues with my stock 20" radiator but I'm looking at installing A/C and I'll need the larger capacity radiator to support that upgrade.
This kit is "out of stock" a lot and you have to catch it when you can.
When I ordered mine it shipped without the radiator and I had to contact them have it shipped seperately (added another week to the complete kit delivery). There's a video that Don does showing the installation and it is pretty much as he shows it. The only issue I had is when the new fan is reinstalled on the pully, Don makes a comment about "hopefully the pully is still indexed" (or something to that effect) and I didn't quite understand what he was meaning. It turns out what he meant was the bolt holes in the water pump shaft align with the pully holes. Of course mine were not and it took me a few minutes to figure out why I couldn't get the clutch bolts into the water pump holes. But besides that it wasn't that difficult. One other comment I have is, be careful with the actual radiator, I have several scratches in my top cover paint. It was caused by just laying a tool or 2 on the top. It scratches very easily.
The kit comes with all the parts, but I seemed to have an extra set of lock washers (bag number 4088), never used them, maybe spares?