One of my vehicles is a53 F100 with a 351C. It ran 200 -210 with a big 3 core radiator, after I installed this restrictor the gauge got to 180 t-stat opened and temp dropped back to 165, rose up to 180 and stayed! Perfect product that sure cures a problem. Just a little scary when you are installing it.

I had to poke around the internet to understand that there is a factory plate, covered in blue paint that disguise that it wasn't a cast part of the engine. It needs to be pried out and this piece replaces it. It was difficult to pry it out, but the replacement piece needed to be tapped in with a punch and fits tightly.

This was installed along with a 160 thermostat. Before the needle was always near the top end of the range near hot. Now after this it’s in the middle at the highest temp. It does exactly as it says. Bypasses so the coolant actually goes through to cool the engine instead of flowing back to the water pump. Highly recommend you get one of experiencing running hot.

This is my set-up:



351C Bored .030 (Edlebrock Aluminum Heads + Air Gap Intake)

20" Aluminum Champion Radiator

17" Mechanical Fan

16" Electric Pusher

160* HF Themo

Flow Kooler Pump

WCCC Restrictor Plate

50/50 Coolant





Before WCCC Restrictor Plate:

With A/C:

Gauge: 231*

Temp Sending unit: 230*

Neck: 206*

Return: 192*



After WCCC Restrictor Plate

With A/C

At traffic light: 207*

At speed: 198*

*********No A/C: 185-195********



More readings after some nice (spirited) runs and immediately parked at the house...

Gauge: 200*

Sender: 197*

Return Hose: 173

Inlet Hose: 163



By the time I took these readings, the gauge dropped to 193 within minutes...Probably would have continued to drop at idle.



So overall, not bad at all. The WCCC restrictor definitely solved my overheating problems for now. You can't beat that for $20. Go here for the full write up and pictures of my troubleshooting:



http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11890

Excellent product, works great, 170 deg with a 160 deg thermostat on a 92 deg day. Could use some instruction on removing the old plate. Text to support, said to use channel locks to pry out the old. Used a 7 inch channel and crushed the bottom of the old plate a bit then it mostly pried right out. Took about 15 min to get out. New one went right in using a socket to press it in place using a hammer

Product worked as advertised! I wish I would have found this before replace radiator.

I put this plate in my 77 F150 4X4 with the 400 block, which is a Cleveland design with a taller deck height for 1/2" more stroke. The engine was bored out 0.060" so cooling was already going to be sketchy even when the original bypass system worked correctly. After a few cases of nearly pegging the temp gauge with the truck sitting at idle and not happening consecutively, it was time to do this upgrade. A quick call to Don at WCCC clarified that this piece simply sits on top of the bypass opening and does not press into it made the job go much more easily. I did drill (4) 3/16" holes in the thermostat for a small amount of water circulation when the thermostat was closed. I put 3+ gallons of fresh coolant back into the truck and fired it up. Once warmed up, the gauge was sitting just below the "E" in TEMP on the dash. So I closed the hood and backed the truck out into the sun to see what would happen. The gauge climbed up to far right of the "E" in TEMP and sat there without budging. The truck is going to do some boat moving and stump pulling soon, so that will be the test of high load/ low airflow through the radiator to make sure all is well. So far, so good!!!

I have a 1970 cougar with a 351c 4v that always ran on the hot line on the gage. I added the restrictor along with a 160 high flow stat (Windsor) and now my gage is at about the 25% make on the gage wow what a change thanks wccc.

Easy to install (press fit using a socket and hammer). I put a 180°F Winsor thermostat. Temperature stayed normal for the first time!

I strongly recommend!

works good.