This product has received the 'Crappy Product' certificate.
Items that receive the 'Crappy Product' certificate are products that we carry for comparison purposes as they are often the version offered by other vendors or because it is the only version available. We would not be willing to use these parts on our own cars, and we do not recommend purchasing these parts.
WE ARE NOT ABLE TO ACCEPT RETURNS FOR THESE PARTS.
Product Condition Grades
Below is a general description of what the criteria is for our product condition grades. These are generalizations that are intended to give you an idea of the condition of the product at a quick glance. Because different parts degrade at different rates, there are variances in what the letters represent, please see the products description for details about the condition of any particular product.
A = Excellent / Above Average
B = Average / Some flaws / Good to Excellent Driver Quality
C = Obvious flaws / Poor to Average Driver Quality
D, E, F = Worse, Worser, Worsest
This is the electrical portion of the new for 1970, locking column mounted switch. This is the rod actuated device mounted on the top of your column under the plastic collar cover. See page 33-02-06 of your 1970 shop manual for proper installation and adjustment. Working, used ignition switch. This is only the electrical side, the mechanical key and lock section is not included. These are tested and repaired as necessary by our Electrical Dept.
Ford part number D0AZ-11572-A.
While there's currently no reproduction of the 1970 ignition switch, you can adapt a 1971 switch to work. The 1971 switch is widely available. This post on the Classic Cougar Community Forum shows how to modify the new '71 switch work in a '70.
Here is a great tip found on www.mercurycougar.net The plastic and metal portions of the switch are held together with crimped connections that can work loose over time. Once they're loose it's possible for the metal contacts inside the switch (some of which are spring loaded) to lose contact with each other. It's also possible for the contacts to work out of alignment over time. If the plastic part is loose you can try using a wire tie told hold the assembly together. Is the switch works properly when secured that way you can either keep the wire tie or secure the crimps with some glue and you'll be good to go. If that doesn't work you have two choices: 1. Replace the switch with either a new (expensive) or used (risky) switch. 2. Repair the switch. If you can disassemble it without breaking the plastic it's possible to clean and realign the internal contacts. Once that's done you can glue or wire-tie the assembly to hold it tight. This is tricky, though because you have to deal with multiple spring-loaded contacts and you need to know which connections are supposed to be "hot" in each switch position. I've got two used switches that I've disassembled, repaired, and tested to confirm working condition, so it's definitely possible. I also broke the plastic part of another one so I can also confirm that it's possible to make one really ready for the trash can!