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product as described, I recommend purchasing
Easy installation and fits well. The enclosed instructions were great. The only issue is the performance. There are a lot of spots that either require excessive squeezing force to activate the switch or are just dead no matter how hard you press. This will get you by if you can't salvage your old stitch.
This is a nice piece, good quality and fit perfectly. WCCC has a You-Tube video on how to install which was greatly appreciated. Make sure the grooves in your steering wheel are perfectly clean before you start. Take your time when installing this item as it can be easily damaged. The instruction sheet with the switch suggested using soapy water to aid in getting it to slide in. I used dish soap and that did help.
This is my 2nd Danial Carpenter switch, my first one i purchased from different vendor and slipped with popsicle stick and tore it. This switch was sent in a much smaller box, I assume to keep shipping costs down. This should NOT be done with these switches, the copper strips are very thin and kink easily, and they stay bent out of shape. It makes for spots that dont opperate correctly. I layed both switches on counter top and tested with continuity tester, there are spots in this one that have to be pushed much harder. Hit and miss weather will work or not. My first switch came in a Danial Carpenter box approximately 16"x8" where the switch could lay in the box without being rolled up. this switch came in a 7"x4" where the switch had to be rolled up to fit. Maybe the switch will work ok , but not impressed with the way it was sent. It should have just been left in its original packaging.
I hate to write a bad review. but this part earn one. I have a 69 Eliminator, and when I restored the car 15 year or so ago I installed a NOS horn switch made in the 90's. Installation went fine, it was easy to install and all looked fine until the horn started working when it wasn't supposed to work. Bought this one as the description tells "This is far superior to the switch Ford put out as a service part in the 90's." Good I thought, maybe I will have a well functioning rim blow switch again. Before instalation I carefully read the instructions, watched a vieo and started to install the horn switch on my steering wheel. I don't usually describe myself as clumsy, but today I started wondering if I am. The problems started right away. While the original Ford horn switch easily came out and went into the steering wheel, this one was near impossible to install. The rubber felt stiff and cheap and a bit oversize, and even when lubricated I just could not easily fit it into my steering wheel. I spent a long time trying to work it in place, carefully as possible, but it just did not fit right. Then I decided to remove the few inches of the horn ring I had installed and check the grooves to look for problems. Also reinstalled my old horn switch once again and it fits perfect. Then made a second attempt and I struggled just as much as the first time. After a long time working very carefully the switch finally was in place. BTW, I checked the switch for every 3 inches for shorts with an ohm meter, and it was fine. Then attached the wiring to the horn contacts and tested the switch. It worked two-three times, then shorted and horn sounded constantly. Diconnected the wires and looked all over the switch and noticed that in 2 places the rubber had started to sparate and exposed the copper contacts. Then removed the horn switch again, comparet it to the original, and they are not really the same. The really big difference is the rubber qiality. Wile the original, most likely made in the 90's still is soft and pliable, the rubber used for the reproduction is a very different quality, Harder and extremely fragile and the rubber will easily spliit and get damaged. Even the shape is not the same, which may explain why the newer is so hard to install. Just to see what it takes to split the rubber on the repro compared tp th original I made a little test to the end of the horn switches. the reproduction came apart witvery very little force, hardly any, while te rubber in the original held up fine. Poor rubber quality on reproduction parts is not something new. 40+ years of restoration have shown the decline in quality over the years, even from the places that used to be good like Dennis Carpenter. I habve rubber parts bought some years ago that now are useless as the China rubber is getting so hard and brittle fast. I also have NOS rubber parts that are often as good as when they were new. My theory is that these switch es wrere produces a number of years ago and then over time the rubber has gone from bad to worse and now they are just not good anymore. So I ended up putting my 90's non working horn switch back on, at least it fits right and looks good. A New $5 horn button switch has been installed under the dash and ut works flawless. The new $150 switch (including shipping and tax is garbage and will end up in the shelf of shame where I put really really bad reproduction parts that I like to show people.