Cat headlights Installation not actually CORRECT but a nice upgrade.
Removed the old unreliable vacuum headlight door system vacuum actuator can and installed a Cat Headlights electric headlight (HL) door motor. It provides a custom mounted electric motor, connecting rod, wire harness and hardware.
Cat Headlights instructions are clear and easy to follow. Disconnect the battery, hook the red wire to a power source, and the black wire to ground. The four socket wire connector snaps into the motor connector. A blue wire must be connected to the floor mounted dimmer switch inside the car. Do not make this connection yet. During installation you must manually turn the bottom knob on the electric motor counterclockwise to made sure the HL doors open and close properly. Following the directions, touch the blue wire to the positive side of the battery and watch as the motor cycles to test the installation. Adjust the connecting rod if necessary.
This single speed motor opens and closes the HL doors quickly. To achieve a slower more controlled motion, Cat Headlights offers an adjustable speed upgrade. I just finished installing their speed adjustable “black box” (BB) and new wire harness, ordered directly from Cat Headlights a few weeks ago. Switched out the wire harness. The new speed adjustable BB was mounted on the right apron below the voltage regulator. First disconnect the kits adjustable rod connecting the motor to the headlight door cam actuator. This allowed the motor to cycle without being connected to the headlight doors. I made sure the rubber stop bumpers on the headlight assembly were securely in place to cushion the open and closed position of the HL doors. Tried the speed adjustments on the BB.
The lowest BB speed adjustment did not allow the motor to run. Moved the speed knob until almost the mid-point to finally get the motor to cycle. Made a suitable speed adjustment, reconnected the adjustable rod and blue wire to the interior dimmer switch. Everything worked.
HINT: When trying to pass the blue wire back into the interior of the vehicle found the old vacuum hoses were really hard to remove from the firewall positioned below the left hood hinge especially after 50 years in place. Checked the vacuum diagram and noted the vacuum hose from the carburetor connected to the center of the three hoses on the HL switch. Disconnected this hose on both ends and ran the blue wire through the hose into the interior near the dimmer switch. Made the blue wire to red dimmer switch wire connection leaving the two interior actuator vacuum hoses still attached to the HL switch.
Have one of only two identical 1970 Competition Orange, Cougar XR7 convertibles. Per the Marti Report they were both ordered in Burbank, Ca. October 24, 1969 with a 351 Cleveland 4V- V8, 4 speed Hurst linkage, PS, PB, 3.50 Traction-Lok, 6Z interior code, and Competition Suspension. This is a solid, no rust California car. Believe the actual mileage is about 120,000. Purchased the vehicle in 1981. Resurrecting it slowly over the past few years. Not sure if the twin survived.