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  • Electric Conversion Kit - Grille / Headlight Eyelid Door - Used ~ 1967 - 1968 Mercury Cougar  - 10049
  • Electric Conversion Kit - Grille / Headlight Eyelid Door - Used ~ 1967 - 1968 Mercury Cougar  - 10049
  • Electric Conversion Kit - Grille / Headlight Eyelid Door - Used ~ 1967 - 1968 Mercury Cougar  - 10049

Item #: 10049

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Price: $599.85
    Cost: 47988
    Earns: 600
    Bonus: 0


    Out of Stock, On Order - Less than 2 Weeks, Unless Supplier is Backordered

    NOTE: Due to high demand, expect delays in shipping on this product.

    As installed on Stacey David's Mercury Cougar V8 Interceptor from Gearz TV!

    Due to overwhelming demand, WCCC is now able to offer a 1967 - 1968 Cougar Electric Headlight Door conversion kit with USED MOTORS. We also have a kit with remanufactured motors here.

    This kit will replace the old, tired, vacuum system that likes to leak and wear out.

    This kit consists of driver and passenger side electric actuator assemblies (1989 - 1992 Ford Probe motors) with a fused wiring loom and relay for easy installation. Includes detailed instructions. Simply remove all existing vacuum components and replace with this kit to have headlight covers that work under any conditions with the car running or not.

    If you have a high performance engine with low vacuum, this is a must have kit for your Cougar.

    Actuator Heim joints are fully adjustable to keep your grille and headlight lids nice and straight without slack. Another advantage of this electric system is that it doesn't put constant pressure on your grille like the original vacuum system does.

    These kits have a 1 year full warranty against manufacturer defects.

    You can find the body plug needed on the firewall here.

    We've had questions about what body plug to use when getting rid of the vacuum hoses and converting to the electric headlights. You can click on the link in the video, or get it here.

    Check out our video below showing how to install this kit:

    Job done! Headlights pop open in a flash. Hooked the wires exactly where you suggested in your video, even black taped as you did. Now the engine is running smoother as a bonus. Thanks for a great kit.


    Long Beach, CA

    Shipping Weight: 9.00 LBS
    (weight shown may be the dimensional weight)

    Check out our installation video below to see how these are installed on a '67 or '68 Cougar.

    1. Unplug headlights

    2. Remove clips on vacuum motor arms to headlight doors.

    3. Remove 2 springs on each headlight door (4 total)

    4. Remove 4 bolts holding the center grill panel to the hood latch support.

    5. Remove 4 bolts holding right and left grill sections to hood latch support.

    6. Remove 2 nuts on back of each grill, located on bottom middle and end of grill (4 nuts


    7. Remove bolt on top of grill under the fender extension pass driver (2 bolts)

    8. Cover bumper, stone guard, carefully remove bolt on top of center of grill, holding on

    to grill, (may require 2 people) do this for passenger and driver sides.

    9. Unplug vacuum hoses from motors, remove 2 nuts holding each vacuum motor (4 nuts,

    bolts total) Remove motors.

    10. Disconnect vacuum hose at intake manifold and install a plug.

    Optional- Remove all vacuum hoses and vacuum reservoir under driver fender.

    11. Motor arms should be lined up in the area painted gray on the motor mount and

    motor arm. DO NOT connect any wires to power at this point, the motor could

    rotate automatically.

    12. Mount electric motor with mount on driver side, using original holes for vacuum

    motor. Push motor completely to rear then tighten nuts.

    13. Mount pass motor mount in original vacuum motor holes, mark 3rd hold and drill a

    5/16 hole, tighten nuts.

    14. Run wire harness to each motor, relay could be mounted on drivers or pass

    fenderwell. DO NOT connect any wires to power yet.

    15. Reinstall grills in reverse order, adjust headlight cover bumpers all the way in, do not

    reuse springs, they are no longer needed.

    16. Ensure the headlight covers are aligned, with the covers closed, check the gray mark

    on the motor arm and the motor mount and align them by rotating the motor knob, THIS

    IS CRITICAL, it is the start, closed position. Measure cover arms, shorten them as

    needed, attach the cover arms with bolts provided, bolts should point toward the center

    of car, tightening them will reduce slack and provide a better adjustment, you may have

    to do this step a few times for adjustment.

    17. Make sure the motors ARE NOT connected to power, then, by hand, rotate the knob

    counter clockwise to open the cover, continue turning counterclockwise

    Do this for both sides. Check for binding. Make adjustments to headlight cover arms as

    needed. Adjust cover arms, motor mount, grill, headlight cover bumper stops can be

    adjusted to ¼ inch from hitting the stops, but not needed …BEFORE POWER IS

    CONNECTED. When covers are closed, the motor arm and mark on motor mount

    should be aligned, failure to align them could burn motors, blow a fuse or damage

    your grill.




    COMPLETELY, check for alignment of gray start position.

    18. Connect wires, red wire to constant positive ie; battery positive or starter solenoid

    positive terminal. Black wire to a good ground.

    19. Simple test. Once the hot wire and ground are connected, you can test the opening

    and closing of the covers by touching the blue(or yellow) signal wire to the positive side

    of your battery. Holding the wire on the positive will open the covers, taking the wire off

    the positive will close them. (IF COMFORTABLE DOING THIS) KEEP HANDS



    20. Connect the signal wire, blue ( or yellow) wire to headlight dimmer switch wire… red

    w/ yellow stripe, wire should come from headlight switch,(67 Cougars with external

    vacuum switch may have a signal wire in engine bay located under windshield washer

    bag red w/ yellow stripe,check this wire for power with headlights on, no power when

    headlights are off ., or use dimmer switch)

    21. Turn the headlights on, covers should open. Ensure they are completely open. If

    they are too tight, the headlight cover arms may need to be adjusted, if they are too tight

    when open, lengthen the cover arm…shorten the cover arm if they are not open fully.

    Some headlight cover sag can be fixed by shortening the arms. Make

    adjustments to motor arms with power wire disconnected!!!

    Motors can rotate automatically and smash your hand!! Use

    headlight cover arms and stops to adjust covers. Motor arms can moved slightly for

    more adjustment but usually not needed.


    These items are considered race only, or off-road. Improper installation or any type of headlight ,headlight

    door failure can cause serious injury or death. Car owner assumes all risk of failure of any kind upon

    installing these headlight door parts.

    Catheadlights( Joshua Duitman) is not responsible for any consequences should a failure of any kind occur.

    These parts must be installed by someone who is competent in installing and modifying automobile

    headlight systems.

    Your browser does not appear to be able to show the instructions, click here to open in a new window.

    (4.87 out of 5 stars) Customer Rating based upon 13 Review(s).
    Hershey, P.A.

    Headlights lids work like they did when the car was new

    5.00 out of 5
    • They work great
    • All the parts are there to do the job
    • The price is a little high
    The kit was nice to install it took about 3 hours to install it in my 1967 Cougar. The timing took some time. But now the headlight lids open and stay closed and stay open like the should no more lazy eye lids. And no more vac leaks.


    Electric conversion kit is better than expected!

    5.00 out of 5
    After headaches of tracking down vacuum leaks and replacing hoses and other miscellaneous parts, I decided to try the electric conversion kit. It installed easily, it eliminated the crooked grill, and no more slow one at a time headlight eyelid door opening and closing. I also noticed engine performance improvement because no more vacuum leaks! Great product!

    Houston, TX

    Don't underestimate the prep work

    5.00 out of 5
    • Good fit and alignment
    • Removing the hydraulic actuator pins
    I installed this kit on my 1967 Standard Coupe. It seemed like a 2-hour job considering it only requires drilling one hole, tightening seven bolts and connecting three wires. However, the instructional videos kind of gloss over the effort required to prep a 50-year-od car with rusty bolts that have every intention of holding the grill and the old hydraulic actuators in place until the end of time. It took one night just to get the grill loose. It took two full evenings of PB Blaster, grinding, fire and the hammer of Thor to finally remove the two actuator pins. Then aligning the headlight doors was an experience within itself. I thought that adjusting the bolts in the grill it would adjust them, but no, you basically just have to slide a screwdriver down and pry them back and forth until they open and close without binding. On night four I finally got to the actual installation fo the electric conversion kit. It went in easily, but chaos ensued the first time I hooked it to the battery. The driver-side motor began flailing wildly the second there was power to the ciruit despite the relay not being connected to anything. This resulted in a blown fuse. On night five I got more fuses and attempted to activate just the passenger headlight door without the driver side plugged in. That resulted in the passenger motor moving wildly without the relay being engaged and another popped fuse. I decided to detach the motors from the headlight covers and plug them both in one more time to see what was going on. Apparently at this point enough magic smoke had escaped the wiring that the motors were no longer under demonic control. They seemed to reset themselves and then work normally with the relay. I re-attached the hoodlight doors and everything worked fine. I definitely suggest plugging in the motors without the doors attached the first time you power them up. Total project time was somewhere in the realm of 10-12 hours. The headlight doors now go up and down with enough purpose, force and speed that they're actually a little scary. If you can convince a carjacker to reach behind the headlight, you could definitely hold him until the cops arrived.

    3.75 out of 5
    Works great !

    Delta, BC

    WCCC guys are awesome

    4.50 out of 5
    Had some issues with the sleepy eye syndrome and then eventually the vacuum grill system stopped working. Not good. Instead of chasing cracked cables, rebuilding actuators, replacing solenoids, etc... I decided to go electric; justifying the conversion as a safety enhancement. The actuator and electric replacement vids are very good and are needed. Needed because the instructions that come with the conversion kit are fairly cryptic and do not provide pictures or the 'do this' bits of information that come from Don, Daryl and Junior. The WCCC guys get a 6 out of 5 but the product is a bit below the 5 for two reasons. One - I want to maintain the classic look of the car so I needed to leave the vacuum hoses in place. By doing that I lose the clean access holes and had to run the cables under the valance and into front cable tray. The connectors where too big to go through the access holes. I maybe able to figure out how to make this work later.......? Two - no idea why a hole has to be drilled for the third bolt on the passenger side when 2 bolts work for the driver's side. But, man, when the grills go up and down without the engine running, there were HIGH 5s all around.

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