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Electric Conversion Kit - Grille / Headlight Eyelid Door - Used ~ 1967 - 1968 Mercury Cougar  1967,1967 cougar,1968,1968 cougar,c7w,c8w,conversion,cougar,david,door,electric,eyelid,gearz,grille,headlight,interceptor,kit,mercury,mercury cougar,motors,new,probe,stacey,actuator,actuators,actuater,vacuum,head,light,doors,vacuum,convert,change,over,probe,miata,toyota,MR2,grill,grille,actuator,joshua,duitman,drduitman@hotmail.com,hide,away,eyelid,chrome,front

Electric Conversion Kit - Grille / Headlight Eyelid Door - Used ~ 1967 - 1968 Mercury Cougar (10049)

4.87 stars, based on 13 reviews
NOTE: Due to high demand, expect delays in shipping on this product. As installed on Stacey David's Mercury Cougar V8 Interceptor from Gearz TV! Due to overwhelming demand, WCCC is now able to offer a 1967 - 1968 Cougar Electric Headlight Door...
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Reviews 1-13 of 13

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I recommend this conversion, the grilles are perfectly straight,and adjustments, are very easy,I have about 100 psi more vacuum for my 4 wheel disc brakes! I'am 60yr old too!

texas

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  • lids%20works%20evenly
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I watch the WCCC video and was able to install with no problems. Great fit and works better than the vacuum ones.

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the headlight motor were eazy to install just as it shows, wiring was also very little work. they work great and make the car look good.thanks

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Easy to install,and it is so nice that it makes it possible to keep the headlight doors even with the grille. Looks so much better!

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Works great !

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This kit went in easy and works great. good quality and got a great price on black friday sale. I thought I had done something wrong at first or I got a bad motor but it ended up being a low battery and that affected the way the motors worked. so make sure your battery is good.

Switzerland

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Very good item! easy to install with the WCCC video (thanks guys!)

Houston, TX

Don't underestimate the prep work

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  • Good fit and alignment
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  • Removing the hydraulic actuator pins
I installed this kit on my 1967 Standard Coupe. It seemed like a 2-hour job considering it only requires drilling one hole, tightening seven bolts and connecting three wires. However, the instructional videos kind of gloss over the effort required to prep a 50-year-od car with rusty bolts that have every intention of holding the grill and the old hydraulic actuators in place until the end of time. It took one night just to get the grill loose. It took two full evenings of PB Blaster, grinding, fire and the hammer of Thor to finally remove the two actuator pins. Then aligning the headlight doors was an experience within itself. I thought that adjusting the bolts in the grill it would adjust them, but no, you basically just have to slide a screwdriver down and pry them back and forth until they open and close without binding. On night four I finally got to the actual installation fo the electric conversion kit. It went in easily, but chaos ensued the first time I hooked it to the battery. The driver-side motor began flailing wildly the second there was power to the ciruit despite the relay not being connected to anything. This resulted in a blown fuse. On night five I got more fuses and attempted to activate just the passenger headlight door without the driver side plugged in. That resulted in the passenger motor moving wildly without the relay being engaged and another popped fuse. I decided to detach the motors from the headlight covers and plug them both in one more time to see what was going on. Apparently at this point enough magic smoke had escaped the wiring that the motors were no longer under demonic control. They seemed to reset themselves and then work normally with the relay. I re-attached the hoodlight doors and everything worked fine. I definitely suggest plugging in the motors without the doors attached the first time you power them up. Total project time was somewhere in the realm of 10-12 hours. The headlight doors now go up and down with enough purpose, force and speed that they're actually a little scary. If you can convince a carjacker to reach behind the headlight, you could definitely hold him until the cops arrived.

Albuquerque

Electric conversion kit is better than expected!

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After headaches of tracking down vacuum leaks and replacing hoses and other miscellaneous parts, I decided to try the electric conversion kit. It installed easily, it eliminated the crooked grill, and no more slow one at a time headlight eyelid door opening and closing. I also noticed engine performance improvement because no more vacuum leaks! Great product!

Melbourne, Australia

Electric Headlight Motors

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  • easy%20to%20fit
  • %20more%20reliable%20product.
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Great product that allows the headlight covers to operate correctly and in sync, no lag between l/h or r/h covers. Also allows engine bay to be cleaner & neater (no vacuum hoses).

Hershey, P.A.

Headlights lids work like they did when the car was new

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  • They work great
  • All the parts are there to do the job
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  • The price is a little high
The kit was nice to install it took about 3 hours to install it in my 1967 Cougar. The timing took some time. But now the headlight lids open and stay closed and stay open like the should no more lazy eye lids. And no more vac leaks.

Super simple install!

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However, I had my headlight assemblies off of the car and did it upon re-assembly, so that helped.



Used the headlight solenoid connector for a trigger, everything mounted up great, could not be happier.

Delta, BC

WCCC guys are awesome

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Had some issues with the sleepy eye syndrome and then eventually the vacuum grill system stopped working. Not good. Instead of chasing cracked cables, rebuilding actuators, replacing solenoids, etc... I decided to go electric; justifying the conversion as a safety enhancement. The actuator and electric replacement vids are very good and are needed. Needed because the instructions that come with the conversion kit are fairly cryptic and do not provide pictures or the 'do this' bits of information that come from Don, Daryl and Junior. The WCCC guys get a 6 out of 5 but the product is a bit below the 5 for two reasons. One - I want to maintain the classic look of the car so I needed to leave the vacuum hoses in place. By doing that I lose the clean access holes and had to run the cables under the valance and into front cable tray. The connectors where too big to go through the access holes. I maybe able to figure out how to make this work later.......? Two - no idea why a hole has to be drilled for the third bolt on the passenger side when 2 bolts work for the driver's side. But, man, when the grills go up and down without the engine running, there were HIGH 5s all around.

Reviews 1-13 of 13
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