This option includes paying a core charge.
By choosing this option, the rebuilt booster you receive will have started the rebuild process as an average quality core.
We highly recommend that you send us your core first. Here's why:
We can core match your booster. Boosters that are rebuilt using a superior quality core are always reserved for core matching. If your core is average or below average, you may be able to pay to upgrade to a rebuilt booster that started the rebuild process as a superior quality core.
You can find out the quality of your core before paying a core charge and avoid unnecessary core charges. Discounted core charges may apply for below average cores if sent in advance.
This is a good quality rebuild, the main difference between this unit and our Premium rebuilds we sell is that they utilize later model cases and do not have the BENDIX stamping on them even though they are in fact originally from Bendix. Also note that many of these units have a reproduction input shaft and spacer to the firewall. These differences make no difference in fit or function but those of you with very original cars will usually want to spend the extra money for a booster with the correct markings. Input shaft tips down for 1967 - 1969 and goes straight back for 1970. Using the wrong booster on the wrong year or pedal will ruin your booster. The 1969 Booster is commonly used on 1967-68 models and is actually a more dependable unit than the Midland Booster used in 1967-68. This unit carries a 1 year limited warranty.
Helpful Tip: These boosters are set with the rod at about .950 (with 20" of vacuum) to make sure it does not pre-load the master cylinder. If the depth is .980 (as the shop manual calls out) and one sets the push rod at that when the engine starts, it could move forward a bit and pre-load the master causing the brakes to drag.
NOTE: If you would like to paint your booster yourself, you can find the correct paint here.
Do not attempt to use a 1970 booster on a 1967-69 Cougar as failure will occur within minutes!
Never bleed your brakes on a power brake car with the car running. The pedal will over extend the rod into the booster and break internal parts. This is not covered under warranty.
Note, You must return all parts shown here to get full core credit back.
Check out our videos below, one on how to convert a manual drum brake car to factory disc brakes, and the other on boosters, differences and do's / don'ts: